16
May 11Next level.
Reading Alan Richman’s account of his Treme cameo led me, after a bit of Internet roundabouting, to the news that Grant Achatz’s new restaurant, Next, is finally open. And, surprise, it’s good:
I find it honestly painful to recommend Next—and particularly its grand Paris 1906 menu—so enthusiastically when the demand for the experience is so high and the seats available to so few. (To be clear, this is not something I blame the restaurant for.) … To dine at Next is not to experience a meal that reaches some objective standard of “greatness.” But it is a rare—and rarefied—opportunity to submit oneself (and this is what you do at Next, where you do not order a dish, select a wine or otherwise make anything that resembles a choice) to a very specific vision—Grant Achatz’s vision—of what great dining might look like.
To my (relatively few) Chicago friends with disposable income: you should go to there.